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Mark Paek
<Broker/President, Hana Finance>
連載コラム/第2回 混乱する住宅ローン事情の裏側
With recent changes in the mortgage industry, borrowers are left with little choices when it comes to loan financing. As lenders are facing credit crunch, it's increasingly harder to get a mortgage loan by those with inadequate credit, income and assets. The following articles may help borrowers to get better terms and easier financing.

Zero Down Loans

It wasn't too long ago when an average home buyer with decent credit and some down payment (or little down payment for that matter) could get a home mortgage without a headache. There were plenty of lenders out there to get them what they want. This applied to those with inability to show income documentation such as W-2 or tax returns. The circumstances have changed dramatically in the last couple of months. It's almost impossible to get an equity type of 2nd mortgage without showing required assets (that's money in the bank to cover several months' of combined mortgage payments). So, so called 80/20 (1st mortgage at 80% of the purchase price and 20% for the rest) is out of the picture for most borrowers.

So, where do we turn to now? There are options mortgage borrowers have now to qualify to get the loan they deserve to move into their dream home or refinance current home. If you are buying a home with no money down, it's time to return to the mortgage programs that were popular a few years ago before the 80/20s were all the craze, it is Fannie Mae Flex Program.

The Fannie Mae's programs also provide for borrowers with bruised credit. The system approves loans with credit issues with rankings of Level 1, 2, and 3. , the higher the level, the higher the risk and subsequently the rate. The FNMA program requires a $500 minimum investment, so you will need a little cash. The catch is that you prove your income- pay stubs, bank statements, etc. The term 100% loan program as a term that's interchangeable with Zero Down…they mean the same thing…your loan is the same value as the sales price of the home. For example, you find a home for $200,000. A Zero down loan means no down payment so the loan is $200,000 which also equals 100% of the sales price. So that explains why the two terms are interchangeable.

However, Zero Down Payment is not the same as Zero Cash. Zero Down Payments means exactly that, no cash needed for down payment, but what about all the closings cost? Buying a house involves closing costs, prepaid interest, and usually establishing an escrow account for taxes and insurance. All of those added together will need to be paid in cash at the closing and be thousands of dollars. You can estimate closing and prepaid items pretty accurately for homes with a sales price between $170,000 and $300,000 of between 2.0%. So for example, on a $200,000 priced home, 2% equals $4,000. Needing $4,000 cash to closing is hardly Zero Cash. There's more to the story. And, there are ways to use a No Down payment loan and create a Zero Cash sale for those of you without cash or those who do, but don't want to use it. How do we turn a Zero Down Payment Loan into a Zero Cash transaction? It's really rather simple. You use a Zero Down Payment and then get the all the costs paid by the seller or in the form of gift mone from relatives. If the market wasn't so slow, it would be pretty tough to get sellers to cover costs…but right now it works just fine. So, if you have bad credit and want to buy a home with Zero Cash do it now before it's too late.

Buy Down Mortgage

Okay, you have decent income and credit but your debt to income ratio (ratio of your total monthly expense vs. gross income) is too high to qualify, what to do now? This is where buy down mortgage comes in. Buy down mortgage isn't anything new. When the real estate market was hot, no seller would consider offering to pay for buy down costs for the buyer. Now, it has become an option that a willing seller can't ignore when the house has been sitting on the market for 4 months with no buyer in sight. For a buyer, a buy down can make the difference in whether or not you qualify for a loan. With interest rate buy downs, your monthly payments build over a three-year period. It's the equivalent of putting money in the bank for the first couple of years of your loan.

And for the seller, other than lowering the asking price, there isn't much a seller can do to compete with other sellers for a buyer. They can't throw in extras or upgrades like builders can.

But sellers can go toe-to-toe with anyone, including builders, when it comes to financing. In fact, they can go even further than most builders do. What's more, they might find that helping would-be buyers qualify for a mortgage or trimming their monthly house payments might prove a much better alternative than cutting their prices - and at a lower cost.

What we're talking about here is an interest-rate buy-down, which is usually one of the first tactics builders use to stimulate activity when sales start to slow. Individual sellers, on the other hand, rarely turn to buy-downs as a sales stimulus. Not because the move doesn't work for them, but because they don't realize the option is available. But once they get it, they jump on board because they are anxious to set themselves apart from their competition.

A buy-down is a tactic in which the seller pays a lender to lower the buyer's rate. Sellers buy down the rate for the first two or three years of the mortgage. This financial tool all but disappears from mortgage menus during strong markets. The most common type is 2-1 buy-down.

In this case, the rate is bought down by two percentage points in the first year and 1 point for the second year. So, if the market rate for a fixed-rate loan is 7 percent, a 2-1 buy-down would result in a 5 percent start rate. Then, the rate would move to 6 percent during the second year and 7 percent for the remaining term. Buy-downs aren't cheap, and they come right off the seller's bottom line. But in the long run, they achieve the same result - that is, lowering the monthly payment - as cutting your asking price. But the seller's bottom line takes far less of a hit with a buy-down than with a drop in price. Better yet, you don't have to pay for it in advance, so there's no cash out of pocket. Perhaps the most difficult hurdle for the seller to get over when considering a buy-down is that it's expensive. But, is it really more expensive that cutting the price?

Here's an example of a 2-1 buy-down for a $250,000 mortgage, with a start rate for a 30-year fixed loan that would otherwise be 7 percent. For simplicity purposes, assume the loan represents 90 percent of the purchase price. Thus, the selling price would be $277,778.

In year one of the $250,000 loan, the rate would be 5 percent, resulting in a payment of $1,342 for principal and interest. In year two, the rate would move to 6 percent and the payment would increase by $157 a month to $1,499. Then, beginning in year three, the rate would be back at 7 percent and the payment would rise to $1,663. Over the two-year buy-down period, the savings to the buyer would be $5,827. That also would roughly be what it would cost the seller to buy-down the rate on behalf of the buyer. But for the buyer to achieve the same $1,342 initial payment, the seller would have to lower his price from $277,778 to $224,200 - or $53,578. Those are some huge differences - $53,578versus $5,827. And some people would say that temporary buy-downs cost sellers too much in comparison to somewhat meager savings achieved by the buyer. However, buy down isn't for everyone. There are certain limitations in qualifying for buy-down mortgage. Some borrowers could benefit more from traditional mortgage.

Dreadful of ARM Reset?

If you obtained a purchase loan or refinanced at a high loan to value and chose a short-term adjustable rate mortgage in the process , regardless if your loan expires in 6, 12, or 18 months it is important to begin working on your credit now. The reason is simple. The combination of falling home prices, rising interest rates and tighter underwriting guidelines will make high loan-to-value loans available only to those with the best credit. If you are not in that group you will have to deal with the consequences of an ARM Reset and payment adjustment which can be financially devastating. In markets with a tight credit supply (meaning tough to get loans), having solid credit is absolutely important. Loan program selection to get out of ARM reset is an important question to answer, however, if your credit is bad, there may not be much choice left over. So what can you do to improve your inadequate credit score or maintain a great one? It is important to obtain a copy of your credit report and ascertain where you stand. If your scores are declining, the following may apply.
  • Too many inquiries on your credit report
  • Balances on revolving accounts of more than 30% of your credit limit
  • Reporting of a late payment on your mortgage or other reporting accounts
  • Too much debt, for example another car, second home or other large debt item
  • Public judgment, tax lien, unpaid parking tickets, collections, etc.
Here are some common ways to rectify a score drop:
  • If your score is hit by excess debt it may be because an old mortgage or automobile account is still showing as active even if you've already refinanced that old mortgage, or turned in a leased vehicle or sold your old car. While you no longer have that debt the bureau may count it against you if the account is not properly recorded as closed.
  • If you've been shopping excessively for items that require a credit inquiry your score will take a temporary hit. Take a break from running your credit for about 3 to 6 months to allow your score to recuperate. Too many inquiries make you look desperate for credit - which hurts your score. Time will clean this up.
  • If your balances are getting large it may make sense to open another card and transfer some of the debt to the new card. This may be effective if you only have one or two cards with high balances. Having a third may allow you to return your debt levels to under 30% of the credit limits. This takes discipline however; do not use the new card to rack up additional debt.

Essential Reminders
  1. Do not miss a mortgage payment, please. This is one of the worst things you can do. There was a study recently that showed Americans are more likely to make their credit card payment than their mortgage payment. If you are in a short-term adjustable ARM and are planning on refinancing in the next 12-18 months this is a terrible decision.
  2. Know what is on your report. I've seen loan applications declined because borrowers didn't know that their gym membership was reporting on their credit and they neglected to pay their gym dues. I've seen a late library book from a local library shave 50 points of a credit score. Don't let trivial items hurt your chances at getting a great loan.
  3. Fight erroneous information. No one is going to clean up your credit report for you without you being vigilant about keeping it clean and pristine. Dispute errors quickly and in writing to document your efforts. Your credit is your responsibility.
Mark Paek
<Broker/President, Hana Finance>
連載コラム/第1回 固定レートとAPRレートはどちらが有利?
固定金利か変動金利ローン、どちらがいい?

固定金利は確実に変動しない毎月の返済額が約束されますが、その反対に変動金利ローンは毎月の返済額が低くなるのが魅力的です。 安心感か手頃な額か? あなたならどちらを選びますか? 不動産購入者として何をすればいいのでしょう。

最終的に選ぶローンのタイプは、各ローンの有利な点、不利な点の慎重な分析によるというよりは、各個人の個性によって決まるのかもしれません。 たとえば仕事や人間関係など人生における他の領域で安心感を求める人々はたいてい固定金利ローンの安定性を選びます。

固定金利ローンの魅力とは元金と金利支払いで、ローン期間中は金利が同じであることです。
それだけの多くの人々が固定金利を選ぶのは安定した予測性であり、そしてその安全と信頼性は持ち家所有者に心の平和を与えます。固定金利ローンを得ればあとは考えることなし。これ以上簡単なことがありますか?

一方、変動金利ローンは通常は正反対です。変動金利は通常特定の期間だけ固定される金利と毎月の返済額によって成り立っており、そしてその後金利と返済額は定期的に変動します。

変動金利は初期の低金利と返済額が魅力であり、固定金利ローンが長期債券に基づいている一方で、変動金利の金利レートは短期債券市場に基づいているために低金利が提供できるのです。短期債券市場は一般に長期市場より低い利率が特徴です。
もしあなたがローンの金利が変動し始める頃に金利が減少すると思っているならば、さらにその後のより低い金利と返済額という魅力があなたを誘惑するかもしれませんね。

大部分の人々が変動金利に抱く不吉な予感はその不安定性でしょう。一旦金利が変動し始めると金利と返済額が増加するかもしれないので、懸念がもたらされます。一旦ローンの金利変動が始まり債権市場の金利が上昇すれば、金利と返済額も増加します。我々の誰もが必要以上に返済額が増えることを望みませんが、中にはよりリスクに対してしり込みする人がいますね。

しかし、その変動金利に対するリスク嫌悪感の多くは無駄な悩みなのです。その理由は?

あなたがどの変動金利を好むかにより、金利と毎月の返済額を固定する有効期間もあなたが選ぶことになります。変動金利は一般に以下のような初期の固定期間があります:1カ月、3ヶ月、半年、1年、2年、3年、5年、7年、10年。最も短い期間が一番低い金利になります。1ヶ月変動金利は変動前のちょうど一ヶ月のみの固定金利と返済額を保証します。1年の変動金利は金利が1年間固定され、その後変動性になります。3年の変動金利は3年間固定、その他も同様になります。

あなたの人生の状況に最も合った期間を選択すれば、危険度を十分減少させながら変動金利の低金利と返済額の利点を活用することができます。例えばもしあなたが初めて家を購入する予定で、たいてい初めて家を購入する人達はわずか3〜5年の間しか住まないということを考慮すると、5年変動金利が一番適しているかもしれません。もしそんなに長くひとつの家に住まないのであればあなたは30年固定金利を選びますか?

もしあなたが今中高年層で子供たちが大学または職業学校入学する年齢であったら、統計学的には子供はきっと家を出て行きあなたは子供に巣立たれた親になりますね。子供に巣立たれた親達はもう少し小さな家によく引越しをしますし、それはまた新しい家の購入とローンの組み替えとなります。

大事な点として、我々の人生は度々、そして予測されながら変化するということです。結婚、出産、引越し、離婚、再婚、病気、年をとる、退職、そして最後に死がやってきます。これらの人生のイベントの全ては大抵わずか30〜40年の間で起こるのです。楽しかったり、またはそれほど楽しくないイベントが時々予告もなく起こるとき、突然我々の住宅とローンのニーズはしばしば変わります。それでも大部分の持ち家所有者はローンを選ぶ時にそのような人生の出来事をめったに考慮に入れません。

時々人生の大事なイベントが急に起こり持ち家所有者達は引越しするかローンの組み替えをするので、平均ローン期間は大抵5年きりです。
他には経済情勢によりローンの利率が減少したり、そしてそれが人々に彼ら自身の変化を作り出すような影響を与えるかもしれません。ローンの組み替えをしたり、おそらく別の不動産に投資するいい時期だと決めたりします。しかしこれらの全てにもかかわらず、人々は予想通りに固定金利が持つ心地よくあいまいな安心感を求めて変動金利よりむしろ30年固定金利ローンを喜んで利用しています。

最終的に選択はあなたがするのです。詳細な情報を得た上での決断は、あなたの個性や特性が意思決定の過程に影響を及ぼしているかもしれないという考えと共に、選択肢の全てを考慮されてできるのです。統計分析はたいてい変動金利ローンを支持していますが、固定金利ローンを選ぶことにも何も問題はないのです。

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